Suit Fabrics, Explained Plainly

Few aspects of tailoring create more confusion than cloth.

Most clients begin their tailoring journey with a relatively clear idea of how they would like a suit to look. They may know the colour they prefer. They may have considered whether the occasion is professional, social or ceremonial.

Then the cloth books appear.

Suddenly one encounters unfamiliar terms:

Super 120s.

Fresco.

Hopsack.

Mohair.

High-twist wool.

Flannel.

What began as a straightforward commission starts to resemble an examination in textile engineering.

The good news is that cloth selection need not be intimidating.

While tailoring houses and fabric mills possess extraordinary technical expertise, the principles most relevant to clients are surprisingly simple.

The purpose of this guide is not to make you a textile expert.

It is to help you ask better questions and make more informed choices.

The Most Important Principle

Before discussing individual fabrics, one principle deserves emphasis.

There is no universally "best" cloth.

There is only the most suitable cloth for a particular purpose.

A cloth that performs beautifully during an English winter may be uncomfortable in a Mediterranean summer.

A fabric ideal for daily business use may be unsuitable for a wedding.

A cloth prized for softness may sacrifice durability.

The finest tailoring begins by understanding how the garment will be worn.

Everything else follows from there.

Wool: The Foundation of Tailoring

Most tailoring cloth begins with wool.

For centuries, wool has remained the dominant tailoring fibre for one simple reason:

It performs exceptionally well.

Quality wool offers:

• Breathability
• Durability
• Natural wrinkle resistance
• Comfort across varying temperatures
• Excellent drape

For many clients, a well-chosen wool cloth remains the safest and most versatile option.

Even today, the majority of bespoke and made-to-measure commissions continue to rely primarily on wool.

Understanding "Super" Numbers

Among the most misunderstood terms in tailoring are the so-called Super numbers.

Super 100s.

Super 120s.

Super 150s.

Super 180s.

These numbers refer to the fineness of the wool fibre.

Generally speaking:

• Lower numbers indicate slightly thicker fibres
• Higher numbers indicate finer fibres

Higher numbers often feel softer and more luxurious.

However, softness is not the same as practicality.

Many first-time clients assume that a higher number automatically means a better cloth.

This is not always true.

A Super 120s cloth may prove more practical and durable than an ultra-fine Super 180s cloth intended primarily for occasional wear.

For everyday professional tailoring, balance often matters more than luxury.

Fresco: The Traveller's Friend

Few fabrics enjoy a more loyal following among experienced tailoring enthusiasts than fresco.

Developed in Britain during the early twentieth century, fresco is a high-twist wool fabric characterised by an open weave and exceptional breathability.

Its advantages include:

• Excellent crease resistance
• Superior airflow
• Durability
• Warm-weather comfort

Many business travellers regard fresco as one of the most practical tailoring cloths ever created.

While it lacks the softness of some luxury fabrics, it compensates through resilience and performance.

A fresco suit often looks remarkably fresh after a long day of travel.

Flannel: The Gentleman of Winter

If fresco belongs to summer, flannel belongs to winter.

Soft, warm and deeply elegant, flannel occupies a unique place within British tailoring culture.

Traditionally woven from wool and finished with a lightly brushed surface, flannel produces a richness and depth difficult to replicate elsewhere.

Its qualities include:

• Warmth
• Softness
• Comfort
• Visual depth

Grey flannel trousers have long been regarded as one of the foundational garments of a classic wardrobe.

There is a reason they have endured for generations.

Hopsack: The Versatile Companion

Hopsack occupies an interesting middle ground.

Its basket-like weave creates texture, breathability and versatility.

For many clients commissioning their first tailored jacket, hopsack is an excellent choice.

A navy hopsack blazer can often be worn:

• In professional settings
• At social events
• With tailored trousers
• With chinos
• Throughout much of the year

Few fabrics work harder.

Linen: Embracing Imperfection

Linen possesses a reputation both deserved and misunderstood.

It is cool.

It is breathable.

It is beautiful.

It also wrinkles.

Considerably.

This is not a flaw.

It is part of linen's character.

The finest linen tailoring embraces a certain relaxed elegance rather than fighting against nature.

A linen suit speaks less of boardrooms and more of summer gardens, coastal hotels and long lunches beneath the sun.

The charm lies precisely in its informality.

Mohair: Structure and Sharpness

Mohair is produced from the fleece of the Angora goat.

When blended with wool, it contributes:

• Crispness
• Durability
• Natural lustre
• Wrinkle resistance

Mohair cloths often possess a distinctive sharpness and clarity.

They are particularly admired in formalwear and structured business tailoring.

A well-made mohair blend suit frequently appears exceptionally clean and precise.

Cotton: Relaxed Refinement

Cotton tailoring occupies a more casual position within the tailoring landscape.

While less formal than wool, cotton offers:

• Comfort
• Softness
• Versatility
• Seasonal adaptability

Cotton suits and jackets often work particularly well during spring and summer.

They bridge the gap between tailoring and casual wear with ease.

The Relationship Between Cloth and Lifestyle

Perhaps the most important lesson in tailoring is that cloth selection should reflect lifestyle rather than aspiration.

Many people commission garments for the life they imagine rather than the life they actually live.

The wiser approach is usually the reverse.

A frequent traveller may benefit from fresco.

A city professional may favour versatile wool cloths.

A summer wedding client may prefer linen or lightweight wool.

A traditionalist may gravitate towards flannel.

The ideal cloth is not the most expensive.

It is the one that serves its owner most effectively.

A Final Thought

Tailoring is often described as an art.

There is truth in that.

Yet it is equally a practical craft.

Cloth selection sits precisely at the intersection of beauty and utility.

The finest fabrics do not merely look impressive in a cloth book.

They perform.

They travel.

They breathe.

They age gracefully.

And they quietly support the wearer through years of use.

In the end, the best cloth is not necessarily the rarest, the softest or the most expensive.

It is the one that makes a suit feel as though it truly belongs to its owner.